Comfy Zen

Here’s our guide to choosing a heat gun to use for your crafts. Our top recommendations are based on the most suitable options, to help you get the results you want for whatever type of craft you are into.

If you are new to embossing, you’re going to find a heat gun is an essential tool to heat the embossing powder to the temperature required to melt it.

The same goes for curing a screen print, and there are other crafts that require higher temperatures to work too, including melting beeswax/soy wax, for candle making, applying HTVs, removing bubbles from epoxy resin, shrink wrapping, and removing decals, etc.

A hairdryer just won’t do, it will blow a much higher volume of air at a much lower temperature not what you want. Especially when you are working with embossing powder – there’s more chance of the powder blowing all over the place than of it actually working.

So safety first! This is obviously a crucial factor when choosing a heat gun, so we just want to point out that all of the heat guns we’ve reviewed here, conform to the highest safety standards.

If you aren’t going to be using a heat gun very often, need one for travel, or need to keep your craft supplies from taking over by taking up much space, the ENGINDOT Mini Heat Gun has the smallest footprint. It’s also our cheapest option.

The advantage of our other choices is that they have dual or multiple heat settings, to give you more control over the temperature you use.

Our top pick is the Wagner HT400. We have featured Wagner’s products here on Comfy Zen before (they also make exceptionally good paint sprayers for furniture).

We were particularly impressed with Wagner’s new heat gun design, not least because you are much less likely to catch your hand and burn it on the hot nozzle. The upright stand means it’s not lying horizontally on your craft desk where you could accidentally knock it with your hand.

If you need a heat gun that is also suitable for a wider range of crafts, can handle larger projects, or that you can emboss with but also use around the home for DIY projects, Wagner’s Spraytech 550 Hot Air Tool is the heat gun that we recommend.

Our Top Pick: Wagner Spraytech Hot Air Tool

What We Like:

• Suitable for all kinds of crafts – The upright stand design keeps the nozzle away from the surface of your tabletop. This means there’s no risk of accidentally burning your hand on the nozzle while you are working.
• Dual temperature settings – 450°F (230°C) 680°F (360°C).
• Three Usage Positions – palm, pencil, and hands-free.
• Long Cord Length – 6-Foot

Weight: 0.7 lbs.

You can see it in action in the video below.

Runner-Up: Chandler Tool Embossing Heat Gun

What We Like:

• Safe and Reliable – this one is perfect for embossing. We think it would make an ideal gift too, you can even get a matching glue gun.
• Dual Temperature Settings: 392°F (200°C) 572°F (300°C).
• Nozzle Safety Shield – You can’t accidentally touch the hot metal.
• Cord Length – 6-Foot is a good length if you aren’t near an outlet.

Weight: 0.8 lbs.

Also Great: ENGINDOT Mini Heat Gun

What We Like:

• A Great Budget Option – For its compact size, it’s powerful and efficient.
• Compact Design – It’s one of the smallest models out there.  
• A Long Cord Length – At 6.56 Feet this is longer than its competitors.

Buying Factors to Consider:

This one only has one temperature setting: 662°F (350°C).

Weight: 0.6 lbs.

Another Worthy Mention: Wagner Spraytech 503087 Furno 550 Heat Gun

What We Like:

• Suitable for a Wider Range of Projects – This one is especially versatile. It’s suitable for stencil wood burning, acrylic paint pouring, wax crayon melting, paint removal, sublimation and candle making, and more.
• 12 Temperature Settings – Ranging from 150°F to 1200°F th
• It Comes With Accessories – Five Nozzles Accessories mean you can customize it according to the project you want to use it for
  

Cord Length: 5.25 Feet.
Weight: 1.984 lbs.

Other Worthy Mentions

We hope this review has been helpful.

If there’s anything good that you think we’ve missed, or if you have any questions about anything, just let us know in the comments below.

Would you like to print promotional material for a band/gig or a new business or sell, t-shirts, posters, and more? Maybe you are looking for a new hobby to unleash all that pent-up creativity.

A screen printing kit is the easiest way to learn this craft. And we’ve recommended kits for several other crafts over the few past months.

Why? …Simply because they are the quickest way to really get to grips with what you are supposed to be doing. You’ll learn way quicker with a good starter kit – not least because they take out all the guesswork, and hours spent trying to work out exactly what materials you are supposed to buy to get yourself set up.

Everything will arrive all together in one box – including easy to follow uncomplicated instructions. So you can open up your kit and start screen printing right away. Kits also make great gifts for like-minded creative friends!

This is a full guide to the best screen printing kit, with our top recommendations to get you started.

Up for that? Let’s dive in.

Editor’s Award	Product	Scroll
Best Photo Emulsion Kit for Fabric Printing	Speedball Advanced All-In-One Screen Printing Kit View on Amazon or Blick.com*	Review
Best for Artists, Printmakers and Fabric Printing	Daler-Rowney System 3 Screen Printing Set View on Amazon or Blick.com	Review
Best for Printing T-Shirts and Small Business Set-Up	DIY Print Shop Screen Printing Kit View on Amazon or Blick.com	Review
Best Introductory Kit | Best Budget Kit	Speedball Introductory Screen Printing Kit View on Amazon or Blick.com	Review

Click to jump straight to each topic.

• What to Look for in a Screen Printing Kit
• The Best Screen Printing Kits Reviewed
  • Best Photo Emulsion Kit for Fabric Printing
  • Best for Artists, Printmakers and Fabric Printing
  • Best for Printing Posters, Flyers, and T-Shirts for Gigs
  • Best Introductory Kit | Best Budget Kit
• Other Worthy Mentions
• Frequently Asked Questions

Different Types of Kits

Below is a brief explanation of the different types of screen printing that you can try and I’ve also provided a glossary of terms which includes the tools and the types of media that a screen printing kit will typically contain. The contents of each kit will vary according to the type of kit you choose.

My only criticism is that they don’t come with a sheet of glass or acrylic to keep transparencies in place. And for most kits, (with the exception of the DIY kit) you will also need masking tape to keep the ink from running inside the edge of the screen and the frame.

You will also need a good heat source – like an iron, a heat press machine if you have one, or a heat gun. This is an important step you’ll need to take in order to cure your print, once it’s dry.

Here’s is a simplified rundown of the different methods of screen printing you can use – just so you get the idea of what’s involved.

• Stencil Method | The most basic method, but still very effective. The stencil paper creates a masked-out area which effectively prepares your screen for printing.
• Drawing Fluid and Screen Filler | Draw or paint freehand (or trace directly) on the screen, then use screen filler to create a mask. Once the drawing fluid is washed off, the screen is ready for printing.
• Photo Emulsion | This method requires the screen to be pre-prepared with a light-sensitive emulsion. The design is then UV exposed onto the screen. Once the design is washed off, the screen is ready for printing.

What do the Kits Come with?

A Wooden Screen Frame and Base | Sizes vary between the kits. The Speedball kits are smaller, so check what size comes with each kit to make sure it’s suitable.

Sensitizer | This is a type of activator used in the photo emulsion method. Sensitizer is a dry paste to which you will need to add water and mix well. Just so you know, the bottle may feel empty before you add water, but be assured, it does contain the sensitizer.

You will usually need to mix and use activator in a darkened area unless otherwise stated. (Speedball’s Diazo Photo Emulsion does not require a light safe environment.)

Photo Emulsion | When correctly mixed with a prepared sensitizer, above, photo emulsion will turn from bright blue to green. It can then be applied to the screen. Pro tip – Refrigerating sensitized emulsion will give it a shelf life of 4 months, just make sure it doesn’t freeze.

A Squeegee | Suitable for fabric or paper/card screen printing. Fabric squeegees have a rounded edge and a graphic squeegee will have a square edge.

A Scoop Coater | The DIY kit includes a scoop coater. A scoop coater has a reservoir to hold emulsion. This enables you to apply a nice even coat to the screen more easily.

Screen Printing Inks | Some kits have more of a selection of colors than others. These may be water-soluble inks, fabric inks, or acrylic paints (with a medium that makes them suitable to use). Some kits contain white plastisol (a plastic paint) for a high opacity when printing white on to dark fabrics.

Photo Emulsion Stripper/Remover | Not all kits contain this, but it is used to remove the emulsion and restore your screen back to its original condition for future use.

Exposure lamp and Photoflood Bulb | Your kit may or may not come with a light source depending on whether the print method uses the photo emulsion method or not. If included, kits may contain a UV Bulb and a light safe bulb for a darkroom environment.

Accessories | Kits may also include craft sticks, card and drawing fluid, screen degreaser, and transparencies, etc.

Full Instructions | All kits come with good instructions and there are tonnes of youtube tutorials to follow.

There are lots of helpful youtube tutorials out there. And I’ve included a youtube demonstration video for each kit where possible.

If you’d like to watch a quick video to see what the process involves, I recommend this one from Blick Art Materials as a quick introduction to screen printing on a t-shirt. In this case, using a Speedball kit.

So, putting all of this together, let’s look at our recommendations for the best screen printing kits out there right now.

The Best Screen Printing Kits Reviewed

Best Photo Emulsion Kit for Fabric Printing: Speedball Advanced All-In-One Screen Printing Kit

Ideal for t-shirt printing, this kit has everything you need to screen print on fabric. The kit includes an exposure lamp with a 200-watt photoflood bulb and a clamp.

Note, it doesn’t come with a yellow light-safe bulb, and that’s precisely why we love this kit – Speedball’s Diazo Photo Emulsion is formulated so it doesn’t need to be used in a light-safe environment.

That means you can work under normal lighting conditions and this saves you from having to blackout your windows or resort to just working after dark.

It comes with four, 4oz. jars of water-based fabric ink in black, red, white, and blue, and you get a 10 by 14-inch frame. Not the largest printing area out there, but perfectly fine for most people’s needs. If you take a look at the guy’s t-shirt on the box, you will get an idea of the print area we are talking about.

What We Like:

• Ideal kit for t-shirts -You can print line drawings, lettering, and photographic half-tone positives on fabric using the photo emulsion process.
• A good size screen – 10 x 14 inches gives you plenty of room for a wide range of projects.
• Inks – You get 4 Water-based inks.

The kit also includes:

• Black, red, white, and blue water-based inks.
• Sensitizer.
• Emulsion remover.
• 2x Transparencies, craft stick, and black card.
• Lamp, photoflood bulb, and clamp.

Check the latest price on Amazon. Price is currently lower on Blick.com.

Best for Artists Printmakers and Fabric Printing: Daler-Rowney System 3 Screen Printing Set

If you are arty and like the idea of creating freehand designs, or aspire to become a printmaker, this is the kit for you.

The kit is specifically set up to enable you to hand draw (or hand trace) your designs directly onto the large 16.14″ by 21.65″ screen – using the screen drawing fluid, provided.

The screen is then prepared for printing with a removable screen block which also comes in the kit.

You can see how this kit works in the short demonstration video, below.

What We Like:

• Print hand-drawn, hand-traced artwork for posters, ads, artwork, greeting cards, and fabrics using screen drawing fluid.
• Large Screen – 16 x 21 inches.
• Includes a good range of inks: The kit comes with 5 water-based acrylic paints and screen drawing fluid.

The kit also includes:

• 5 Full-sized acrylic paints.
• Textile printing medium.
• Screen printing medium.
• Removable screen block.

Check the latest price on Amazon. View and check the price on Blick.com.

Best for Printing T-Shirts and Small Business Set-Up: DIY Print Shop Screen Printing Kit

Now first let me say, you are going to need to do a bit of DIY to put this one together, (no pun on the name intended).

The instructions say the 14 x 14-inch platen should be fixed to a table, (so if you don’t have a designated craft table, you might want to consider fixing it to a wooden board instead).

And just in case you didn’t know, the purpose of the platen is to allow you to mount and hold your shirt in place (tacking adhesive is provided) so that you get a perfect print every time and the ink can’t run through to the back.

With this kit, you’ll get a generous 16 × 20 inches screen, allowing for larger prints, a professional 70 Durometer squeegee, and, something the Speedball kit doesn’t come with – a scoop coater.

Just so you know, a scoop coater is a black-colored tool you can see in the image below, it helps you easily apply a nice even coat of emulsion to the screen via its built-in reservoir design.

Unlike the Speedball kit, this kit comes with a sensitizer that is light sensitive – so it needs to be prepared and applied in a darkened room away from light.

For that reason, the kit includes a light-safe bulb and a UV Bulb.

The kit also includes:

• 14 x 14-inch platen.
• 16 × 20-inch screen.
• Screen degreaser and emulsion stripper.
• Black water-based ink.
• White Plastisol ink.
• Emulsion.
• Cleanup cards, sponge, tape, gloves, pack of 10 parchment paper (so you can cure the shirts with an iron), 2 sheets of Rite Film WP film, and an instruction manual.

And again, you can see how this kit works in this full demonstration video, below -it is quite long so you may want to bookmark it for later.

What We Like:

• A professional kit for t-shirt printing – ideal for a small business setup. (Poster kit also available.)
• Large Screen: 16 × 20 inches.
• Includes a starter press with 14 x14 inch platen.
• Inks: White Plastisol ink (for dark fabrics). Black water-based ink.

Best Introductory Kit | Best Budget Kit: Speedball Introductory Screen Printing Kit

It’s basically a two-in-one kit:

You’ll be using paper stencils (x50) to make prints. I recommend getting a good die-cutting machine if you want to take this method to the net level.

You can also draw freehand (or trace) using drawing fluid and screen filler to create and print your designs.

What We Like:

• A fabulous starter kit for a bargain price using paper stencils and the drawing fluid/screen filler methods of screen printing.
• Good Size Screen: 10 x 14 inches not too big or too small.
• Inks: You get Red, and black fabric ink, plus acrylic black drawing fluid

The kit also includes:

• Screen degreaser and emulsion stripper.
• Red and Black ink.
• Acrylic black drawing fluid.
• Screen filler.
• Screen Cleaner, marker paper pad, knife*, paintbrush, mixing sticks, and instructions.

* The kit would make a lovely craft gift – but be aware, it contains a knife.

Check the latest price on Amazon. View on Blick.com.

Other Worthy Mentions

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We hope this list of the best screen printing kits has been helpful.

If there’s anything good that you think we’ve missed, or if you have any questions about anything, then let us know down in the comments below.

If you are wondering which pottery wheel to choose, this straight to the point guide will take you through some options to help you choose the most suitable, and therefore, the best pottery wheel for you.

The table below contains a summary of our top choices. But we also provide full reviews and information about what to look for as well. You can jump to each section from the table of contents below the table.

Choosing Your First Pottery Wheel

If you are just starting out, or just want to have fun and try your hand at throwing some pots, you probably don’t want to spend too much, and the good news is, the most expensive wheels, (which have centering capacities of 150 lbs and up) are frankly way more than you would need anyway.

So if you just want to have fun and not spend too much, for well under $200, our budget option is a pretty solid choice.

Alternatively, even if you have never thrown anything before, you may prefer to go for a step up from a basic pottery wheel. The Speedball Artista is an excellent choice for starting a new hobby.

It’s suitable for all skill levels. It’s practical and priced at under $500 it’s a lot more affordable than the full-sized ones. It also comes with a two-year warranty.

Tabletop Pottery Wheels

Tabletop pottery wheels are usually compact, and easily portable – the Speedball Artista and the Aspire Pottery Wheel by Shimpo are good examples. You can take them outside when the weather’s nice, and they’re convenient to carry with you to a pottery class.

Even as an experienced potter, you may just prefer to specialize in smaller pieces, so a compact tabletop pottery wheel may be all you ever need.

Some people do, however, struggle to find a suitable surface to place a tabletop pottery wheel on. You will need to find somewhere to position it at a comfortable height to work. But you may be able to find, or even make, a table that’s suitable for your tabletop pottery wheel.

Hand Operated vs Foot Operated Pottery Wheels

Tabletop pottery wheels may be hand-operated or foot-operated (via a foot pedal). On balance, hand-operated pottery wheels are generally easier to work with for a beginner. The simple reason is that it can be a little difficult to get the co-ordination right between changing the speed with your feet while working the clay with your hands. (The same is also true when learning to spin on a spinning wheel.)

Full-Size Pottery Wheels

If you’ve tried throwing on a wheel before, maybe you’ve taken some classes and, you know you’re not a quitter, I recommend you invest in a Brent EI.

Brent models may be more of a considered purchase but they outperform the cheaper ones by a mile.

They are ideal for a home studio set up and are built to last – well, basically forever.

Brand	Details	View
Speedball Artista Potter’s Wheel	The Perfect All-Rounder Speed: 0–220 rpm Wheel Head: 11″  Bats: 2 included. Centering Capacity: 25 lbs Warranty: 2-years Read Full Review	Blick.com
Shimpo Aspire Pottery Wheel	Small and Portable Speed: 0–230 rpm (hand-operated version) Speed: 0–250 rpm (foot-operated version) Wheel Head: 7″ Bats: 2 (9- 3/4″) Centering Capacity: 20 lbs Warranty: 5-year limited manufacturer’s warranty Read Full Review	Blick.com
YaeTek Electric Pottery Wheel Machine	Ideal Starting Kit for New Hobbyists Speed: 0-300 rpm Wheel Head: 9.84” Bats: 0 Centering Capacity: (Approx) 20 lbs Read Full Review	Amazon
Brent Mode IE, B and C Power Wheels	The Enthusiast’s Dream Setup Model IE Speed: 0–240 rpm Centering Capacity: 75 lbs. Bats: Plast-Bat 12″ Warranty: 5-years Models B and C Speed: 0–240 rpm Centering Capacity: (B)150lbs | (C)225 lbs. Bats: Plast-Bat (B)12″ | (C)14″ Warranty: 10-years Blick.com Amazon Read Full Review	Model IE Blick.com

Click below to jump to each topic in this guide.

• Full Product Reviews
  • Our Top Pick | The Perfect All-Rounder
  • Best Portable Pottery Wheel
  • Ideal Starting Kit for New Hobbyists
  • The Enthusiast’s Dream Setup

Our Top Pick | The Perfect All-Rounder: Speedball Artista Potter’s Wheel

Best Portable Pottery Wheel: Shimpo Aspire Pottery Wheel

The Ideal Starting Kit for New Hobbyists: YaeTek Electric Pottery Wheel Machine

The Enthusiast’s Dream Setup: Brent Models IE, B, and C Power Wheels

As you can see from the video above, the Brent pottery wheel is a huge step up from the cheap imported pottery wheels out there.

But considering the sheer quality of their build, they are a worthwhile investment for anyone wanting to set up their own pottery studio at home.

To give you the best idea of how to use your heat press machine, I’ve written this easy how to use a heat press machine guide. I’ll take you through a typical process for printing a cotton t-shirt.

You can scroll straight down to any of the sections in this how-to by using the list of contents below.

Just so you know, I have put links to Amazon for any supplies you might need throughout. And if you haven’t already, check out our guide to buying a good heat press machine.

Table of Contents

• How Do Heat Press Machines Work?
• What Types of Transfer Can Use With a Heat Press Machine?
  • Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV)
  • Sublimation Paper
  • Heat Transfer Paper
• How to Use a Heat Press Machine – Instructions

How Do Heat Press Machines Work?

Heat press machines basically apply heat and pressure to an image to permanently transfer it onto whatever item you are printing.

The reason it’s so popular is simply that it’s such an easy process. It’s something that can easily be done at home without stress or mess. And you’ll get a beautifully heat printed item, that’s professional enough to sell if you want to.

Though there are differences in the types of heat press machines, they all work in basically the same way. But essentially they are using the same principles you would use to iron a heat press a transfer onto fabric with a regular iron.

But really don’t try that! You’ll waste a good transfer and ruin your t-shirt.

Why’s that?

Because an iron creates hot and then cooler spots as you move it back and forth over your fabric. You’ll also be stretching the fabric a little here and there in the process as it’s just not possible to press it flat all in one go. That means your transfer won’t stick to the fabric properly. It’ll end up peeling and looking a bit smudged.

So you can see that’s less than ideal.

A heat press machine, on the other hand, applies completely even pressure at the precise temperature you set it to so that your transfer will stick and become an integral part of your fabric.

What Types of Transfer Can Use With a Heat Press Machine?

I’ll now run through the different types of transfers that you can use. Any of the links will take you to where you can get them on Amazon.

Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV)

This is basically just a fine layer of vinyl, backed onto a carrier sheet. It’ll look something like the image to the left once the design has been cut out and the excess weeded out.

These sheets come in sets or rolls of single colors or bundles of multi-colors. You can even get a bit fancy with flock, glitter, metallic and more.

HTV is great for lettering branding and simple block color designs. You wouldn’t try to recreate a painting with it but there’s beauty in simplicity and there are no limits on your imagination.

If this is the look you are going for, you should definitely invest in a good die cutting machine.

If you don’t know what one is, it’s a special type of printer. It cuts out designs that you create for you, using the free software included, either on your computer or through an app on your phone. You can easily upload and use your own images and fonts too.

HTV works best on cotton, polyester or cotton/polyester blends. But you can also apply it to mugs, hats, footballs, and wood.

It’ll work well on both light and darker colored fabrics.

As you can see in the image to the left, you should get instructions with each type of transfer you choose. So don’t be scared to go for that glittery one if you want to.

Sublimation Paper 

For this method, you’re going to need an inkjet printer that can take sublimation ink. If you already have one that’s great, you’ll save yourself some money because you can easily convert it to take these inks.

Sublimation paper is designed to absorb the sublimation ink and then release and transfer it when you apply heat with your heat press.

Sublimation transfers work only on 100% polyester fabrics or very high polyester content blends. But if you want to go for the vintage look, you can use a 60% poly blend.

If you’re feeling experimental, it is possible to apply a polyester coating to pre-treat any cotton or other less than ideal material.

You can also print mugs, plates and other ceramics. Aluminum also works well.

But remember there’s no white ink. That means the natural color of your fabric will show through in those areas. So this method is only suitable for white or very light-colored fabrics.

Here are a few tips:

• Use heat resistant tape to hold your paper in place so you don’t get any ghosting effects.
• Remember to reverse your image when you print it out.
• You should place your image face down.
• Sublimination requires a higher temperature to print than vinyl or heat transfer paper – around 400°F.
• You will need a Teflon Sheet to put between whatever you are pressing and the platen.
• And do make sure you place copy paper inside your shirt before pressing to prevent any ink from bleeding through and spoiling your shirt.

What I love about this method is that you can create beautiful full-color highly detailed designs with this method using programs like Adobe illustrator.

I’m an illustrator myself so I love the versatility of this method. You can see the kind of detail you can go into in my illustration to the right which was created in Adobe Illustrator.

If you follow your instructions, you’ll get a vibrant and highly professional result, not least because when sublimation inks are printed, the image doesn’t just sit on top, it becomes integral to the fabric itself.

If you wash your sublimation printed garment inside out on a very cool wash using a mild detergent and no fabric conditioner. Your fabric will last indefinitely.

Heat Transfer Paper

This is a little different from using sublimation paper. You can use either an inkjet or laser printer.

With an inkjet printer:

• You can print a transfer that’s suitable for cotton, polyester, and blends.
• You can get transfer paper for dark fabrics as well as light fabrics.
• If you print using dark transfer paper you’ll need to trim close to the edges or your image will be on a white square.
• If you print using light transfer paper there is a clear film that will transfer as well so you should again trim close to the edges for a better finish.
• You must use pigment-based rather than dye-based inks. Dye-based inks will wash out after a couple of washes.
• Your print will feel slightly rougher than the other methods.

Laser printers do have an advantage in that:

• You can print light fabrics and dark fabrics and can also get hard surface paper, which is designed especially for printing on hard surfaces so you don’t need to pre-treat them first.
• You can buy either non-self weeding or a self weeding paper. Self weeding paper will eliminate the background for you so that you don’t need to trim around the edges of your design.
• Your print will feel smooth.

Heat transfer paper printed shirts using either inkjet or laser printers will only give you 25 to 30 washes before the image fades and starts to crack. And that’s even if you do wash it inside out on a very cool wash using a mild detergent and no fabric conditioner.

How to Use a Heat Press Machine – Instructions

Here’s your guide to printing a t-shirt using a heat press. In this case, we’ll be using a pre-cut vinyl design on a cotton t-shirt. If you are using sublimation or heat transfer paper the temperature and times will be a little different so this method is just for vinyl.

And just so you know it doesn’t matter whether you have a swing-away or clam style heat-press, the basic principle of how they all work is much the same.

Ok, let’s begin:

• With your heat press machine closed, turn the pressure adjustment knob to set the pressure to firm. There’s really no exact formula for this, it basically comes down to how much pressure you’d use if you were ironing it by hand.
• Lift the lid and switch the heat press machine on.
• Set the temperature on the digital timer to 320°F/160°C or follow the temperature instructions that come with your transfer paper.
• Set the time – in this case, to 16 seconds.
• Lay out your t-shirt over the thick pad on the bottom plate (platen) evenly and make sure it’s completely straight. Try to keep the shirt collar off the edge of the pad so that you don’t have an uneven surface to press. And do keep your hands away from the top plate (platen), it’ll get hot.
• Wait for the machine to heat up to temperature. This usually takes around 6 minutes.
• Close the lid to but don’t clamp it shut, for around 6 seconds to pre-press your shirt. This will iron out any creases and remove the moisture so that your transfer will stick to it more easily.
• Now place your transfer onto your t-shirt lining it up evenly. You can use a T-square to help you.
• Place a Teflon sheet over your shirt and clamp the lid shut and press for around 4 seconds this is enough to make the vinyl transfer stick to your shirt.
• Peel the clear plastic sheet away from the back of the transfer, which should now be stuck to your shirt, and place the Teflon sheet back over the t-shirt.
• Clamp the lid shut and press for the remaining 12 seconds.

Lift the lid and that’s it, grab yourself a coffee put your feet up, and admire your work of art while you let it cool!

Being able to design and print your own line of clothing and homeware is an absolute dream – and it’s way less complicated than you’d think. This is a guide, to help you find the best heat press machine out there.

You might have seen a lot of terms like clam, swing-away, platen, die-cut, sublimation, HTV, and screen-printed transfers without any explanation of what they are or what they do. It can all get a bit too much to get your brain around.

This guide will help you sail through what you need to know in order to get yourself up and running. So before you know it you’ll be ready for the fun bit – whether that’s the excitement of starting your very own clothing and homeware line or just the pure joy of seeing your own custom-made designs come to life for yourself, family, and friends.

If you want to just skip all the extra information and you just want to know which heat press machines are currently the best to go for, then they’re all right here in the table below for you.

Editor’s Award	Product	Scroll
Best Heat Press Machine for Under $200	TUSY Heat Press Machine From Amazon	Read More
Best Mid Range Heat Press Machine	Siser Digital Clam Heat Press From Amazon	Read More
Best High-End Heat Press Machine	STAHLS HOTRONIX Auto-Open Clam From Amazon	Read More
Best 5 in 1 Heat Press Machine	TUSY Heat Press Machine 15×15 inch Swing Away 5 in 1 From Amazon	Read More

Click to jump straight to each topic.

• What to Look for in a Press Machine
• The Heat Press Machines Reviewed
  • Best Heat Press Machine for Under $200
  • Best Mid Range Heat Press Machine
  • Best High End Heat Press Machine
  • Best 5 in 1 Heat Press Machine

What to Look for in a Press Machine

The main two styles of heat press machines you will notice are the clam style and the swing away style.

• The clam style has a top lid that closes over the top of the bottom plate with a handle.
• The swing-away style lifts horizontally and swings to the side and out of your way.

One isn’t better than another it’s purely a matter of personal preference but the clam style takes a few seconds less time to operate and saves more countertop space too – but well talk more about that in our reviews below.

We’ll now take a look at the reason they vary in price so much and what you get for your money.

The Best Heat Press Machines Reviewed

Best Heat Press Machine for Under $200: TUSY Heat Press Machine

Having this bottom handle really helps because it gives you something to grab onto with your other hand while you’re opening or closing the lid – much like if you open a book, opening it with two hands is easier than one.

It’s also got something in common with the more expensive models including our high-end pick – and that’s a double-bar top handle. Other machines at this price point usually only have a single arm handle, just like the one you can see in the image to the right, but this sturdy wide handle is more rigid, making it more durable and easier to grip.

This will give you more stability when you’re actually using it and reduce the possibility of a wobble at that crucial moment when you’re clamping the lid shut because that’s the last thing you want when you’re trying to do precise work.

And that platen gets hot so having two handles helps keep your hands well away from the hot surface – after all, you really don’t want to burn your fingers by sticking them anywhere near while trying to prize the thing open.

So considering there isn’t much difference between the models this one is just easier to use and it doesn’t cost any more.

If you’d like to be able to print larger areas such as large adult tees rather than just smaller ones, you should go for a 15″x 15″ size which is the version we’ve chosen here. At this price point, they don’t come any larger than this but it would be unusual to need one any bigger, and don’t worry, it’s not too big, you’ll also be able to fit toddler tees on it too.

However, if you know you’ll only need to print smaller areas this won’t matter too much to you and you might prefer to go for a heat press machine with a smaller heat platen like the one above right and save a few bucks.

In case you are wondering what you’ll be able to print with this machine, you’ll be able to print more than just t-shirts here are a few examples of things you’ll be able to print:

• Sweatshirts, and other garments,
• Tote bags,
• Mouse mats,
• Banners,
• Throw pillows and much more.

The downside to this machine, though, is that it can’t print mugs or caps and that’s because you would need mug and cap press attachments for that. If that’s something you’d want to do, scroll down for our 5-in-1 review.

If you’d like to know what printing materials you can use with this machine, here’s a quick list, but if you don’t know what any of these terms mean yet don’t worry we explain all of that in our guide to using a heat press:

• Pre-cut heat transfer vinyl (HTV),
• Sublimation paper
• Heat transfer paper
• Embroidered patches
• Screen printed transfers, otherwise known as plastisol transfers.

The machine will even handle rhinestones well. You simply use light pressure and a piece of cardboard to prevent the glue from sticking anywhere other than to the back of the stones and the fabric you’re sticking them to.

This heat press is a clam style heat press which is one of the two main styles you’ll see out there, the other one being the swing-away style.

Now the difference between them is that with the clam style, the lid which is not actually attached to the bottom platen, lifts up, much like a clamshell, while the swing-away style lifts horizontally, and then you swing it to the left away from your workspace.

At this price point, the swing-away style is more often sold as a bundle with other attachments such as in the 5 in-1 in our review below.

There are advantages to each, but if your focus is just to pint t-shirts, etc. and you’re not going to need all the attachments to print mugs hats, and plates, you’ll find the clam style much better as it’s such a great little space saver taking up much less room on your work table than the swing-away.

Another advantage is that it’ll also take less time to operate since you don’t have to swing the heat platen away from your work each time you make a transfer, and then back again for your next one. Admittedly you’ll only save yourself a few seconds but these seconds start to add up when you have quite a few tees, to work your way through.

Now for the last bit, let me just run through some of the extra things that I’ll need to say about the other features this machine has. I won’t go into too much detail as this is pretty much standard for all of them.

First of all, it has an LCD control panel on which you can set the time and temperature that you need. The temperature ranges between 0 and 500 degrees and the time range are 0 to 999 seconds. The required pressure is set by turning the pressure adjustment knob.

Here is a short marketing video about it so you can see it in action.

What We Like:

• The Handles Provide Stability and Support | Unlike its competitors, the TUSY Heat Press Machine has a handle on the bottom which gives you added stability and support when lifting the lid. There is also a double-bar top handle which provides stability and support when closing the lid.
• Low Price | It’s very affordable in comparison with higher-end machines making it ideal for beginners, hobbyists, or new small business ventures.
• Easy to Operate | This machine works in just the same way as the much higher-end models without the high price tag. You still get an LCD panel with a timer that lets you set the time and temperature that you need, and the pressure is set by turning the pressure adjustment knob. The clock time is spot on for this machine and it only takes around 6 minutes to heat up to full temperature, that’s pretty quick. That’s basically it, and just so you know, your sublimation, or heat transfer paper, etc should come with instructions on the settings you will need.

Best Mid Range Heat Press Machine: Siser Digital Clam Heat Press

The Siser Digital Clam Press is a step up from the TUSY Heat Press Machine we’ve just looked at, in terms of precision and quality and although it does cost more than our cheaper option, it’s a high-quality machine, it costs much less than Stahls Hotronix, and it will give you years of use.

It’s super easy to operate with its digital time and temperature readout that will let you know by bleeping when your transfer is done.

For even edge-to-edge pressure, it has an over-the-center pressure adjustment. The upper flotational platen isn’t rigid, but don’t worry it’s designed that way to for accurate placement and it will provide a flat, even press every time.

The upper heating element has a non-stick coating to prevent your transfers from getting stuck and cast tubular heating elements are placed every 2 inches apart to eliminate any cold spots. So your transfer will look perfect every time.

Key Features:

• It has cast-in tubular heating elements spaced every 2 inches to eliminate cold spots.
• It features a high-quality platinum RTD (Resistance Temperature Detectors) heat sensor.
• The upper heat platen has a non-stick coating.
• The upper flotational heat platen is designed for the ultimate even press.

Best High-End Heat Press Machine: STAHLS HOTRONIX Auto-Open Clam

The only issue with that though, is there’s a big step up in price too. That’s why this one is more of a high-end pick. This one is better, but it sure reflects that in its price tag.

Now I’m not saying that the cheaper Chinese import machines are not well made, most are pretty durable and will get the job done for you, no problem. But if something were to go wrong, there’s only Amazon’s returns policy that you’ve got to depend on. With this one, however, you’ve got the backup of a lifetime warranty on the machine’s heating block, a 1-year warranty for parts and labor, and excellent technical support.

This heat press is also a clam-style machine, it works in the same way as the TUSY machine we have looked at. At the risk of repeating myself, this style is much better for saving you counter space, and it takes (admittedly just a few) seconds less time to operate since you don’t have to swing the heat platen away from your work each time you make a transfer, and then back again for your next one.

When it comes to the printing side of it, the thing that’s going to matter most to you after you’ve spent all that time carefully preparing your artwork is that it transfers evenly all over. I mean the last thing you want is it peeling up at the corners or looking faded out in places and ruining your t-shirt or whatever fabric you’re printing on in the process too.

This can happen in other machines if the platens don’t meet evenly so they end up pinching in places, giving you uneven pressure, or if the heat platen develops cooler spots so that there are areas where there isn’t enough heat for the transfer to take properly.

With this machine, they’ve thought of a couple of clever ways to get around this and prevent it from happening. Firstly, they’ve given their heat press a patented over-the-center pressure adjustment, and that together with a floatation top platen that adjusts itself as the lid closes, will give you, edge-to-edge heat and pressure no matter how thick the surface you are printing.

Secondly, they’ve eliminated the chance that any cold spots will develop and ruin your transfer, by adding cast-in tubular heating spaced at 2″ apart. This increases the thermal conductivity of the heat platen. And that means every part of it stays just at the temperature you need.

And what particularly impressed us is the accurate digital pressure readout on the console. This takes all the guesswork out of medium or light pressure etc.

So if you’re a beginner and have the budget, this machine will give you the absolute best results every time.

The defining factor about this machine for me though, is how effortless it is to open and close.

You see with other machines the action of repeatedly opening and closing the top platen after multiple prints can get pretty tiring on your shoulder and arm. After a while, they’re really going to start to ache.

This machine’s going to take all the hard work (and weight) out of heat printing for you. It has a smooth auto-opening action – and means it will do just that! It’ll open all by itself when the time’s up (and give you a satisfying pop in the process).

With a printing area of 16″ by 20″ it’s big enough to heat print much larger areas than most. Giving you a wide range of design size possibilities.

The bottom plate is straightforward to remove and replace with a different size when you need to – no tools are required, and it takes just seconds. This is something you’ll find extremely useful as your orders start to increase.

Lastly, I need to mention a little feature that’ll make a big difference in how much room you’ll have to work with when you’re preparing your transfer. Where other machines only open to around 45° to 50°, the top platen on this machine opens to 65°. Now that’s significantly wider than other machines and those extra degrees are important.

You see, the most time-consuming bit of the actual printing process is, more often than not, simply the time it takes you to lay your fabric out and accurately place your transfer into position. Rather than actually waiting for the timer to count down. So the last thing you need is to have to negotiate around a hot platen that’s a little too close to your hands for comfort. Those extra degrees will give you just that. A bit more space to work with which will help speed up your workflow – as well as make sure you don’t end up with any unwanted burns anywhere.

Now for the feature that I need to mention which pretty much comes as standard for all these machines – the digital time and temperature readout that lets you set the time and temperature that you need – and just so you know, it’s spot on with this machine. The pressure is set by turning the over-the-center pressure adjustment knob.

If you’re wondering what this machine will print, it’s pretty much standard to all of them. If you missed the list, scroll up to see it here. The only exception with this one (and our top pick) is that it doesn’t print caps, plates, or mugs, etc., Although there is a completely separate cap heat press machine designed by Hotronix specifically just for that purpose.

Weight: 96lbs

What We Like:

• Made in the US | Unlike the cheaper Chinese imports, with this machine, you are getting a quality heated press machine made in the US. You also get the backup of a lifetime warranty on the machine’s heating element and a 1-year warranty for parts and labor. You also get great technical support.
• Smooth Auto Opening | It has an easy open-close action, helped by a gas spring that gives the machine a smooth shock auto opening, so you’ll never have to struggle to open or close it for that matter.
• Patented Over-the-Center Pressure Adjustment | Together with the floating action of the top platen that adjusts itself as the lid closes, this machine will ensure that you get even, edge-to-edge heat and pressure.
• Built to Last | The Hotronix Maxx has a scratch-resistant, baked-on powder coat finish. It also has a non-stick coated heat platen and it complies with the strictest US safety standards.
• Cast-in Tubular Heating | Set at 2″ apart, this will ensure you never get any cool spots.

Check the latest price on Amazon.

Best 5 in 1 Heat Press Machine: TUSY Heat Press Machine 15×15 inch Swing Away 5 in 1

These 5-in-1 heat press machines come with four different attachments. These attachments actually adapt the basic t-shirt press part of the machine into a completely different cap, cup, or plate heat press machine – depending on which one you want to use.

You can see in the image above, that the main top and bottom platens have been switched out for the hat press attachment.

Now, here’s the thing: it’d cost just the same as this five-in-one machine if you were to get the first pick in this guide and a separate mug machine for example. That, of course, would mean missing out on the other attachments as well. This makes this five-in-one machine far more cost-efficient if you’re a crafter that’s going to actually use them.

You can also say that it’s nice having an all-in-one machine rather than two machines. It’s a little more space-saving at the very least.

The difference between, the TUSY 5 in 1 heat press and others out there is that this one comes in a 15″ by 15″ platen size. Now what this means is you’re not just restricted to having to make do with the one size that all the other 5 in 1’s offer.

You see most of these 5-in-1 heat press machines only come with a 12″ by 15″ platen for the regular t-shirt printing side of things and not this larger size. This size is usually only an option with stand-alone machines. So basically, with most of the 5 in 1 machines out there, what you’re actually doing is sacrificing a few inches that you might need to get those extra attachments.

The one defining thing that you’ll notice about this and all the other 5 in 1 machines out there, is that it’s a swing-away style – rather than the clam style that was our top pick.

The reason for this is a purely practical one, and that’s because the design of the swing-away machine is what actually makes it possible to partially dismantle and reassemble the machine with whichever extra attachment you want to use.

But don’t worry, there’s no compromise on quality here, one style isn’t better than another. It’s just that with a stand-alone machine where you’re using just the basic platen over and over again, it’s a little quicker to use a clam. And since you’re not swinging the platen out and away from the machine and you don’t have any attachments, you’re going to save yourself some counter space too.

With this one, you are going to need a bit of worktop space to use it. And, of course, you’ll need room for the additional attachments too. But if your workspace is a bit limited, remember you will only be using one attachment at a time. So it’s going to be much more economical with your space than having lots of different machines.

The only downside to adapting the machine rather than having several separate ones is that with the exception of the cup press, which pretty much just pugs in as-is, you’ll need a cross-head screwdriver, to adapt the machine and fix the other attachments to it.

But don’t worry if you don’t know what a cross-head screwdriver even looks like, they’re the ones that look like an ” x” on the end – you know, the really common standard type you see around. Anyway, it’s really very easy and straightforward to assemble the different attachments.

Also, it’s worth me mentioning again, that these machines that come with the extra attachments are all pretty similar, and that’s because, like our top pick, they are imports from China. Don’t let that put you off, because that doesn’t mean they’re not durable. If you’re a hobbyist or are even starting a small business, they work pretty darn well, and they’re affordable simply because you do get a lot for your money.

One thing that impresses me about TUSY’s new 15″ 5 in-1 heat press machine is that they’ve given it a thicker double-layer mat. The single black dense foam one that comes with their other models is a little too thin in my opinion so it could curl or may not stay put as easily while you are placing your fabric over it. That said, it’s no big deal to replace it s, they don’t cost much and if it does start to degrade over time you can easily get a replacement mat here if you need it.

But it’s just good to know that with the new version, TUSY has thought about it and given the mat a bit of an upgrade.

What We Like:

• Good Build Quality | The TUSY has a lot more metal parts than plastic ones. That’s something that is not common to all of them. That vertical bar that supports the top platen is quite often just plastic covering an inner metal tube. Which means it can be prone to splitting. The TUSY has a much stronger all-metal bar making it way more durable.
• Low Price | It’s very affordable in comparison with higher-end machines making it ideal for beginners, hobbyists, or new small business ventures.
• Easy to Operate | This machine will give you the same results as a high-end one without the high price tag. The attachments are all straightforward and easy to attach and, of course, you still get an LCD panel with a timer that lets you set the time and temperature that you need, and the pressure is set by turning the pressure adjustment knob. It only takes around 6 minutes to heat up to full temperature, that’s pretty quick.

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We hope this review of the best heat press machines has been helpful.

If there’s anything that you think we’ve missed, or if you have any questions about anything, then let us know down in the comments below.

If you haven’t tried macrame before, and you like the idea of creating something a little boho chic and contemporary with fiber, you absolutely should try macrame, you will love it! There isn’t a huge expensive outlay or a ton of equipment to buy, just to get going. And you can make something you’ll actually be proud of – your very first try.

There’s a lot of choices out there so we looked at more than 30 macrame kits and narrowed our search down to find the best macrame kits in our four main categories.

Type of Macrame Kit	Top Pick
Best Macrame Plant Hanger Kits	Macrame Plant Hanger Kit by ReformFibers
Best Wall Hanging Kits	Beginner macrame KIT by CordPlusQuartz
Best Home Decor Macrame Kits	Macrame Hanging Shelf Kit by KnottyCotton
Best Mini Macrame Kits	Macrame Keychain Kit by KnottyRopeCollection

Table of Contents

• The Best Macrame Kits Reviewed
  • Macrame Plant Hanger Kits
  • Wall Hanging Kits
  • Home Decor Macrame Kits
  • Mini Macrame Kits
• Other Worthy Mentions
• Frequently Asked Questions

Macrame Plant Hanger Kit by ReformFibers

Wall Hanging Kits: Beginner macrame KIT by CordPlusQuartz

Home Decor Macrame Kits

Best Mini Macrame Kits: Macrame Keychain Kit by KnottyRopeCollection

Other Worthy Mentions

Weaving is a fun and rewarding hobby that allows you to create beautiful textiles using a variety of techniques and materials. If you’re new to weaving, it can be overwhelming trying to figure out which tools and equipment you need to get started. One of the most important pieces of equipment for a weaver is the loom. In this post, we’ll take a look at some of the best weaving looms for beginners.

None of the looms we tried were costly so they would make beautiful gifts- in fact, they are perfect for anyone who would just like to try their hand at weaving.

But above all, they are well made. They are not going to fall apart – because that’s the last thing you want when you’re halfway through a project you’ve lovingly put so much work into.

There’s a lot of choices out there, so we looked at more than 20 looms that were suitable for a beginner and narrowed our research down to our top 5 picks. Our recommendations have the perfect combination of design quality, durability, as well as aesthetic charm.

So, whichever one you choose, you will treasure, and find an absolute pleasure to use.

Our Top Choice	Lap Heddle Loom by Craft Boutique NYC
Also Great	Frame Loom Weaving Kit Blush by Oake&Ashe
Best Pocket Loom	Pocket Weaving Loom Kit by Amubleu
Best Tapestry Loom	Tapestry Loom by Stephen Willette
Also Consider	Circular Weaving 2-Loom Set by CraftSanity Circular Weaving 3-Loom Set by CraftSanity

Unlike some looms, that come with just a yarn needle, this one has a heddle bar – though it’s much simpler in design than the heddles you’ll find on traditional rigid heddle looms.

But don’t worry if you don’t even know what one is yet, I’ll explain. It’s that separate bar with notches that you can see at the bottom of the picture below.

You simply thread your warp threads through the notches.

Twist the bar one way, and one set of warp threads lifts to form a shed (the area where the shuttle stick passes back and forth). Twist it the opposite way and the shed closes and alternative warp threads lift to form a second shed.

It’s such a simple idea, it just makes weaving in and out of the warp threads so much easier.

With this lap loom, you also get two shuttle sticks, an adorable wooden loom comb (to comb your weft yarns into place) and the kit even includes a bar for hanging your first piece.

Made from 100% authentic beech wood, which is known for its aesthetic colors and durability, this weaving loom has a high-end contemporary look and feel.

Although no yarn is included with this option, there is an add-on option to purchase a 50g ball of white cotton warping thread. You can see it on the loom in the photo above.

The frame loom we’ve featured here is the 14″ by 16″ lap loom. But there are two additional sizes to choose from. See below.

• Lap Loom 14 inches x 16 inches
• Large Weaving Loom – 19.6 inches x 19.6 inches
• XXL Loom – 35 inches x 34 inches

You can visit the Craft Boutique NYC store here.

The kit is perfectly designed for a beginner. But you can use it to make some beautiful pieces.

A good kit is always a great choice for a beginner. It means you don’t have to spend time researching and ordering everything you need in order to get started, and you’ll already know exactly which supplies to buy when you’ve used everything up in your kit. (We’ve written our soap-making kit guide and our guide to candle-making kits for that reason).

The Oake&Ashe loom is very easy to assemble and super easy to warp and set up making it one of the best looms for beginners.

The frame comes with a set of beams that have strong plastic hooked teeth to prevent the yarn from slipping off and to accurately space your warp threads.

The loom we have featured here is the 10″ by 10″ lap loom and because there’s no external frame around it, this space-saving design means you can create weavings right up to those dimensions.

And if you want a larger loom? That’s no problem, there are several other sizes to choose from. I’ll link them for you below.

With this kit, you don’t get a heddle bar like the Craft Boutique NYC’s one we have just looked at, but you do get a pickup stick.

To use a pickup stick, you thread it in and out of your warp threads. Then with the pickup stick laying flat, you weave your yarn in and out of the warp threads, as you would normally, using the stick shuttle or weaving needle provided.

In the opposite direction, you simply turn the pickup stick vertically to automatically lift some of the warp threads. This will create a shed for your stick shuttle or weaving needle to pass straight through. (Pickup sticks are also commonly used to make more complicated weave patterns in weaving.)

The frame of this kit is beautifully made from sustainably sourced hard maple wood and the kit also includes:

• Beginners’ instructions
• Small scissors
• 800 yds cone of warp yarn
• 4 balls of 100% wool yarn – in Blush, Beige, Ash, and Taupe, but there is also a grey option if you prefer.
• 1ozs of wool roving
• A maple wood weaving comb and a 10″ hanging rod.

The great thing is, that you can practice mixing colors and yarns and create mini (sample) patterns before you apply them to a large-scale project.

So even when you are hooked on weaving (and you will be,) and have years of experience as a fiber artist, you will still want to use this little kit to make samples for your bigger weaving projects.

The fact that it also comes with a mini muslin storage bag also makes this an ideal travel loom to take with you to the beach etc.

The loom itself is made from wood and measures 4″ x 6.75″ giving you a finished cloth of 4 inches by 6 inches.

The kit also comes with:

• 1 weaving needle made from a thorn from a honey locust tree. ( I just love the names of trees.)
• 2 mini skeins of hand-dyed DK weight yarn. In a choice of colors from pinks, oranges, and golds to greens, blues, greys, and black. That’s about 20 grams in total and enough yarn for your first project.
• 1 muslin bag to keep your supplies together when you travel
• And instructions to help get you started.

Check the price of the Pocket Weaving Loom at amubleu’s store on Etsy.

Tapestry Loom: Tapestry Loom by StephenWillette

Made from solid cherry, this tapestry weaving loom has an original design that takes its inspiration from the best features of the Tapestry Loom, Navajo Loom, and Sprang Loom.

Where the design of this one really stands out, is that you choose your own natural sticks for the top and bottom of the loom.

They then become part of the weaving process. The loom will allow for a piece to be woven up to 21.5″ in length and 13″ wide. But if you have longer sticks, you can make weavings much wider than this as it’s possible to weave outside the loom.

When the tapestry is finished, you simply remove the pegs and you are ready to hang your weaving.

Natural sticks are available, at Stephen Willette’s store both with holes drilled (approximately 1/2″ apart) and without holes.

The loom folds to a compact size of 28″ tall x 16″ wide x 4″ deep and the handle makes it great for travel or taking with you to a weaving class.

No shuttle, shed stick, or tapestry needle comes with it but they are all available from the store.

Vsit the Stephen Willette store.

They are just as easy for a beginner as a regular frame or tapestry loom. But the fiber art you’ll create will have anyone believe you are an experienced fiber artist.

The set includes:

• One, 3 1/4″ diameter scalloped loom
• One 7″ diameter scalloped loom
• One 11″ diameter scalloped loom (this item is in the set of 3 only).
• Full-color instructions for basic weaving in the round and a warping diagram for you to follow – making it a great choice when choosing the best looms for beginners.
• One metal yarn needle.

A nice touch that will only find from a friendly small independent business is that for $5 (or less for the 2 sets) you can even, choose to have your looms warped for you – so when they arrive they are ready to go.

Other Worthy Mentions

In conclusion, there are many great weaving looms on the market for beginners. Whatever you choose, be sure to consider factors like size, materials, and accessories when making your decision.

So you’ve just completed a really nice piece of beadwork, either on or off a bead loom, and you’re now faced with the problem of how to turn it into a finished bracelet you can proudly wear.

You’ll find there are a ton of helpful tutorials on how to set up and use a bead loom but when it comes to finishing your beadwork and adding a clasp, there’s really not much out there to help you.

This easy to follow guide is here to take you through the finishing process, and show you how to add a fastening, whether your beadwork is created on or off-loom.

Table of Contents

• Adding a Crimp Clasp or Ribbon End to a Bead Loom Bracelet (The glue and cut method).
• Adding a Slide, Toggle, Button or Bead Clasps to an On or Off Loom Bracelet
  • Sewing in Your Weft and Warp Threads
  • How to Add a Toggle Clasp, Bead Clasp, or Magnetic Clasp

Notes:

The bead fastening will measure approximately 1 1/4″ in length. The toggle clasp will measure approx 1 1/2″. For a ribbon clasp, you should measure your clasp and adjust your bracelet length accordingly.

Bead Loom Bracelets

If you have the Ricks bead loom, we featured in our bead loom guide, you find you’ll only have two warp threads to deal with at the end of your project.

With most looms, however, you will have several warp threads at each end of your beadwork – as well as the weft thread (that’s the one your seed beads were threaded on to).

In this section, we’ll look at how to add a ribbon crimp to finish your beadwork.

Adding a Crimp Clasp or Ribbon End to a Bead Loom Bracelet

OK, I have to be honest, this method is not one of my favorites. To be frank, it’s a bit messy and fiddly – mostly because it involves glue.

But also, because it’s really easy to accidentally dent the clasp when you close it – and you don’t really get a second shot if you don’t place it exactly straight and where it needs to be.

If you go for this method I strongly recommend you choose a good quality crimp or at least one you like enough to really want to wear as part of your bracelet or necklace.

The cheap findings don’t do it for me. They tend to let your work down a bit and a beautiful piece of beadwork can so easily be spoiled by the wrong clasp.

That said, if you find a pretty clasp and you’re feeling confident you can do a good job, the process (in theory) is pretty straight forward.

For this method, start with your beadwork still on the loom.

Your thread will be exiting the last bead from the left.

Here’s what to do:

• Starting on the next row following your final row of beads, weave your thread in and out of your warp threads as if you were weaving a tapestry.
• Continue until you have approximately 1 cm of woven tapestry. Backstitch several times for extra security and then tie-off and cut your thread.
• Now add a thin layer of beading adhesive over the woven area, leaving it overnight to set.
• You can then trim the warp threads close to the woven/glued area and you are ready to add your crimp clasp to cover the entire area.

If you have Julia’s Beadalon Jewel Loom be careful when you cut the beadwork from the loom because the loom is under tension.

A nice touch is to add a small strip of ribbon or recycled sari over your woven area before gently and evenly closing the crimp over the end.

Toggle Clasps, Bead Clasps, and Magnetic Clasps for On or Off Loom Bracelets

For each of the following methods, you will need to sew in your threads first.

This will give you a neat stip of woven beadwork ready to add virtually any clasp of your choice.

In this section, we’ll take you through how to sew in all your threads, and then we’ll look at some options for adding different types of clasps – including my personal favorite, the beaded clasp you can see in the photo above.

How to Sew In Your Threads

Cut or remove your beadwork from your loom leaving enough on your warp threads to sew in.

And remember if you have Julia’s Beadalon Jewel Loom, take care when you cutting the beadwork from the loom – the loom is under tension and it can release with quite a snap.

Sewing in Your Weft Thread

Your thread will be exiting from the left side.

Here’s what to do:

• Sew back up through a couple of beads in the row above.
• Now, sew up to the previous row changing direction and tie a half hitch knot before continuing along the row and up to the row before that.
• Continue doing this for a few rows before tying off your thread. Go through a few more beads before cutting or burning off your thread with a thread burner close to the last bead you exit.

There is no specific path you need to take. Just remember to follow the natural path of your beadwork so your thread virtually disappears.

Sew In Your Warp Threads

Here’s what to do:

• Thread your beading needle onto the first warp thread.
• Sew into the next bead up, on the previous row, and continue to sew through your beadwork following the natural path of your beads. Tie a couple of half hitch knots here and there. Continue through the next few beads and then cut the thread close to the last bead you exited from.
• Repeat the process until all your warp thread are sewn in.

Tried to avoid going over the same path more than a couple of times or the thread will build up and you will no longer be able to get your needle through.

You may need to use a finer needle (from a size 10 to a size 12).

You are now ready to add a clasp.

How to Add a Toggle Clasp, Bead Clasp, or Magnetic Clasp

Adding a bead, toggle, or magnetic clasp is easy, and once you get the idea, the process is very similar for whichever fastening you choose.

For off-loom beadwork, you can use any beading thread you have still left on your needle (providing you have about 12″ left). Just make sure you thread exits where you want to add your fastening.

Alternatively, you can start a new thread. For bead loom bracelets, you will need to add a new thread.

Here’s what to do:

• Add a new thread to your beadwork several rows up and work your way down to the bottom row.
• Exiting the bead where you want your fastening to begin, Pick up 7x 11/0 Miyuki seed beads and 1x Swarovski crystal round bead. Size 8 is probably better though I used a size 6 for mine.
• Pick up 3x 15/0 Miyuki seed beads to make a picot.
• Sew back through the Swarovski crystal round bead and then pick up 7 more 11/0 Miyuki seed beads.
• Reinforce the fastening by going round the path again.
• Now reinforce the connection between the bracelet and fastening as shown in the center illustration above.

To make the loop enclosure for the opposite end, the process is very similar.

However, you will need to test how many beads you need in order to (only just) allow the Swarovski crystal bead to pass through the loop.

Add 5x 11/0 seed beads. Then add either a 3mm fire polish or a 3 or 4 mm Swarovski bicone crystal before creating a loop of around 16 or 17 11/0 beads (depending on your brand of beads and tension).

The silver toggle clasp was added in a similar way or you could choose a magnet fastening for this method too.

I’ve also added a bead and loop closure to my beaded lacy necklace tutorial which you may find helpful.

So there you have it. It’s easier than you think. And if you made it this far, one thing I really do recommend for beadwork is to get yourself a good craft light so you can properly see what you are doing – especially one with a magnifying glass. That way you’ll cut down on mistakes or be able to spot any more easily and backtrack before you’ve gone too far.

Check out our reading room for beading inspiration.

If you want a cheap kit so you can dabble in the art of wood-burning, you’ll find a ton of them out there. All pretty much the same – with just slight variations in the number and type of accessories, you get with them. They’re cheap because the wood burner is basically a repurposed soldering iron. And soldering irons don’t cost much to make.

It’s not necessarily a bad idea to get one if you’re a complete beginner. They will let you try out a bunch of different techniques. But sooner or later you’re going to want something that will let you really get into the craft and explore your potential.

So whether you want to just have a go or really master the craft, I’ve done all the hard work and research for you to find the best wood-burning kit out there depending on your criteria.

Updated January 2022

Here are reviews of my recommendations:

What We Think	Brand	Product
Seriously Good	TRUArt Stage 2 Single Pen Professional Woodburning Detailer
A Good Choice for Artists	Professional Wood Burning Kit, TEKCHIC Pro1
A Budget Friendly Kit for Beginners	PETUOL 110 Pieces Wood Burning Kit
Smoke Extractor for Your Kit	KOTTO Woodburning Smoke Extractor

Table of Contents.

• Our Top Picks
• Smoke Extractors | Why You Need One
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Other Wood Burning Kits We’ve Reviewed

Seriously Good: TRUArt Stage 2 Single Pen Professional Woodburning Detailer

It doesn’t have lots of different types of tips like the cheap kits.

But that’s not actually a downside because you’ll be able to use the set of 40 wire tips it comes with for a wide variety of applications. Much like the pencils and brushes you use for drawing and painting.

It also comes with 5 assorted files, pen holder, pliers and tweezers and a brush.

This kit doesn’t have any stamp tips, because you won’t be using stamps as an artist. You’ll be drawing things yourself, you see. That’s the difference in the focus of this kit.

Our top choice is the single pen version. But we have to say, it would be worth going for the two-pen version if you can. That way you’ll be able to have the two tips you’re using most often for your project at hand.

You can basically swap between them – without having any wait time for one tip to cool down before being swapped and then swapped back when you need it. This will save you a lot of hassle in the long run.

You get a good selection of quality wire tips in this kit. Wire tips are much better than stamp tools – or the various solid-shaped tips you get with the cheaper kits.

They’re designed for you to draw with and add your own detail – unlike those that have chiseled ends in various shapes that make a standard – pre-shaped mark for you.

You’ll be able to work with these tips in a way that’s not unlike the way you would use your pencils and brushes in traditional artwork.

And you can make minute heat adjustments with the digital control to easily achieve depth and shading to your work.

What We Like:

• Cooler to the Touch, Ergonomically-Shaped Pyrography Pen | The pen has a heat-resistant rubberized wrap. That means will remain cool enough for you to hold the pen much closer to the heated tip, than other brands on the market. Even for long periods. The pen is also more oval-shaped than some of the chunkier round-shaped pens out there. That means it will fit more naturally in your hand, allowing for greater control and a steadier hand.
• Good Heat control and a Fast Heat-Up Time | The Kit comes with a very accurate 60W voltage dial. This means you can control the temperature and therefore the amount of burn to get the perfect mark. The tips heat up super fast which will also help speed up your workflow. They do obviously take longer to cool than heat up. However, they still cool faster than the thicker solid tips of the cheaper kits. And if you go for the 2 pen set, you won’t have to interrupt your workflow while you wait for the tips to cool.
• Professional Wood Burning Kit | TRUArt are a company that just specializes in wood-burning kits, spare parts, and accessories. You know with them you are getting a professional artist quality product. If you require any extras, such as additional tips, spare parts, or even an extra pen, you will find that they’re all easily available to buy.
• Carry Case| Most other kits don’t come with a carry case. This might seem like a no big deal detail but you’ll want to look after your equipment. Therefore, having the correct size case that you can put everything away into when you’ve finished using your kit is both helpful and sensible.

A Good Choice for Artists: Professional Wood Burning Kit, TEKCHIC Pro1

It also comes with two pyrography pens which make swapping between nibs so much easier and faster than waiting for one pen to heat up and cool down.

Because different types of wood burn more or less easily the ability to accurately adjust the temperature of the pen could make all the difference to mark the pen makes. Unlike the PETUOL 110 Pieces Wood Burning Kit and indeed all the cheaper kits out there the TEKCHIC Pro1 has a 30W voltage dial. In comparison with the TRUArt 2 it’s about half the wattage but the pen still reaches 700 degrees at its highest which is more than hot enough. The actually glows molten red hot!

Cheaper kits do tend to have temperature control but it’s a standard, tiny (and fiddly) dial on the side of the pen itself.

What We Like:

• Good Accessories | 20 Different wire tips, with ball tips that make drawing accurately a breeze. The kit also comes with 2 tool stands, sponges, a screwdriver, 2 kinds of wood to get you started plus a carry case.
• Dual Wood Burner | By its nature, wood-burning takes longer than drawing by hand with a pencil. Having two pens increases your workflow which would otherwise be slowed further by the time it takes for a single pen to heat up and cool down.

Buying Factors to Consider:

The kit doesn’t come with the array of extras that the PETUOL 110 Pieces Wood Burning Kit or others like it. So beginners or people who don’t want to draw freehand might prefer to skip this one and go for the cheaper option below. But for anyone who enjoys drawing this is a good mid-price range option.

Budget-Friendly Kit for Beginners: PETUOL 110 Pieces Wood Burning Kit

As we’ve mentioned, these pyrography pens are pretty much-repurposed soldering irons and can even be used as such.

That’s not to say they’re not good for wood burning. They may be very basic – you plug ’em in, they get extremely hot pretty quickly, hot enough to make decorative marks on wood and with all the different tips you can attach to them, you can get some great results.

You may be more creative than artistic. In this case, you’ll find having lots of stamps and stencils useful.

Just bear in mind that unless the stencils are metal, and with the cheaper kits they mostly aren’t, you should just use them to trace your design onto the wood. The reason is you’ll melt the plastic if you use the pen directly on them.

If you lean more towards the artistic side or you like the artist’s sketch look and want to have a go at drawing, you should look for a kit that has a good selection of pencil-shaped tips.

The 110 Piece Wood Burning Kit shown above left has quite a few of those but it also has several stamp tools too.

In our opinion it’s a good all-round kit with a bit of everything in it.

One thing we really like about this kit is that it does have temperature control. This is something you’ll find useful in order to achieve the right amount of burn for the type of wood you are using and the type of mark you are trying to make. A word of caution though, like all the kits in this low price range, the controls are a bit fiddly and not as accurate or sensitive as the digitally controlled ones you get with the more professional pens.

These pens also tend to get hot so they aren’t ideal for using over prolonged periods. Another big plus point about this kit is that it comes with heatproof gloves. If you choose a similar kit that comes with different accessories, you might find a heatproof glove a good idea.

Not a criticism of this kit in particular but I do need to point out that these cheaper pyrography pens are less efficient. They tend to take longer to heat up and longer to cool down than our top choice.

This will, unfortunately, slow your workflow down considerably and you’ll need to be patient while you’re waiting for the tip to cool down enough to swap it.

What We Like:

• Lots of Tips and Accessories | This makes them ideal for experimenting with. You’ll be able to find your own style and learn what works for you so you can achieve something to be proud of. Not only that but if you find a good tutorial or have a project in mind you want to create, chances are, you’ll already have everything you need in one of these kits to go ahead and make it.
• They’re Super Cheap | Most of these kits are around the $20 mark which makes them worth going for, even if you’re not sure whether you’ll like your new hobby or not. In any case, even if you don’t commit to wood-burning and go on to create amazing and stunning masterpieces, you’ll certainly get your $20 worth of fun out of one.

Buying Factors to Consider:

• Pyrography Pen Can Get Hot | These pens as we’ve discussed are primarily soldering pens. They’re pretty cheap and not that well insulated. This means they can get uncomfortably hot if you’re using them for a long period of time. If you want to complete large projects or you think you’ll be using the pen quite a lot you should consider going for a professional kit like our best choice

Smoke Extractors | Why You Need One

However, pleasant the smell of wood smoke is, it’s not good for you.

And once you get totally absorbed in a project, you’ll forget that the air around you is getting smokier and more unhealthy by the minute.

It’s only sensible to get yourself a fume exhaust rather than to risk any short or long term health problems from something that should be relaxing and enjoyable enough to be actually good for you.

This one by KOTTO isn’t expensive it will sit happily next to you on your craft table and it’s designed specifically for all types of wood-burning projects.

Alternative Wood Burning Kits:

These are the products that didn’t quite make our top picks. But they’re still pretty good so you might like to take a look:

I’ve been on the hunt for the ultimate craft light for what feels like an eternity. I’ve tried all the different options, from anglepoises to flimsy clip-on lamps to bulky floor lamps that take up half my studio. I’ve even dabbled in those trendy “daylight” bulbs that promise to give you the same lighting as the outdoors, but all they did was give me a headache. Having had enough of subpar craft lighting, I was ready to find the one that truly reignited my passion for crafting. That’s why I decided to embark on a mission to find the best craft light out there.

In this quick, straight-to-the-point guide I will tell you exactly what to look for when choosing a craft light for whatever it is you love to create.

Ultimately I chose the Neatfi XL Bifocals magnifying light – a purchase I’m especially pleased with. It has made the world of difference for me. I’d even go so far as to say it’s taken my craft skills to the next level. Now I can really see what I’m doing up close in detail (thanks to the magnifier), even if it’s the only light source in the room. The photo below was taken at night in a totally dark room of my Neatfi Bifocals magnifying light.

Choose a good craft light and it won’t matter how poor your surrounding lighting conditions are. Evening or late-night crafting projects are as easy (and eye-strain-free) as working in daylight.

	Neatfi XL Bifocals
	Neatfi Bifocals magnifying light
	Neatfi XL Craft Light
	Dimunt LED Floor Lamp

Extra Contents:

• Handy Diopter Magnification Converter
• Other Worthy Mentions

And the bifocal feature is a total bonus, with the 5 Diopter lens for distant vision and the 20 Diopter lens for close-up work.

But what really sold me was the 1,600 lumens of bright, glare-free light. It’s perfect for reading small prints or working on delicate projects, and the color temperature of 5600K-6000K is just right. Plus, it’ll last up to 100,000 hours and doesn’t get hot, which is a major plus.

And the dimmable feature is a godsend. I can adjust the brightness level by 25%, 50%, 75%, or 100% depending on my task, which is a must-have for anyone looking for the perfect lighting for various projects. Plus, it comes with a 3-year warranty, so you know you are covered. All in all, I’d say this is the best craft light I’ve come across.

Pros:

• Extra large 7″ wide lens provides even spread of bright light over a large area
• Bifocal feature with 5 Diopter lens for distant vision and 20 Diopter lens for close-up work
• 1,600 lumens of bright, glare-free light ideal for reading small prints or working on delicate projects
• Color temperature of 5600K-6000K is just right
• Dimmable feature allows for adjustable brightness levels
• Lasts up to 100,000 hours and doesn’t get hot
• Comes with a 3-year warranty

Cons:

• More expensive than the next option, but you get what you pay for and it’s a better light.
• Maybe more than you actually need.

If you find a cheaper craft light that looks just as good, chances are the lumens, or brightness, just won’t be enough.

You’ll notice that this one has a clamp rather than a standard base. Clamps are ideal if you have a desk that you can clamp it to – but don’t worry if you don’t, you can easily get a compatible mounting bracket that will allow you to fix it flush to your desktop or even to a wall.

As you can see in the photo below, this light is designed for maximum flexibility. The clamp, or other means of fixing it, means you can pull it into the exact position you need and it will stay put. There’s no chance of it toppling over onto your work.

The 5-inch, 5-diopter magnifier, will make everything 225% larger for you. It’s ideal for detailed work, but if you need to zoom in further – miniature/model painters, knitters, crocheters, and beaders will love the built-in 20 diopter spot lens which will zoom in by 6x, which means the smallest of details will look 600% bigger.

The lamp’s also dimmable by pressing the power button you can adjust the brightness level to 25%, 50%, 75%, or 100%.

Though for most crafters this 5″ lens version is just perfect, I can crochet and knit – or rather see where to pick up my all too frequently dropped stitches, work on detailed hand-drawn illustrations, and work on my beadwork with ease, but if you really want to go bigger and even brighter, Neatfi XL Bifocals is the way to go.

Pros:

• High lumen count of 1,200
• Clamp or mounting bracket options for flexibility in placement
• 5-inch, 5-diopter magnifier and built-in 20 diopter spot lens for detailed work
• Dimmable with four brightness levels
• 7-inch lens version available with even higher lumen count of 1,600

Cons:

• May not be suitable depending on the type of craft you want to do

 A full three-year (3) warranty is included.

As with the Neatfi Bifocals Craft Light, the clamp can be replaced with a mounting bracket alternatively it can be converted to a floor light.

Pros:

• Extra-wide 20” shade provides good coverage for large workbenches or craft tables
• High lumen output of 2,200 lumens in 5600K-6000K daylight light is ideal for poor lighting conditions
• Dimmable from 100% to 75%, 50%, and 25% for adjustable brightness
• Can be turned off with a double click of the button
• Clamp can be replaced with a mounting bracket or converted to a floor light
• Designed to last for 20 years without a bulb change, and uses 80% less energy than a standard bulb
• Comes with a 3-year warranty

Cons:

• Doesn’t have a magnifier.
• Maybe larger than you need.

 A full three-year (3) warranty is included.

A control panel on the stem allows you to adjust the light from 100% right down to 10%, and you even have the option to change the lighting effect from a warm white to a cool white.

The gooseneck head is fully flexible allowing you to position the light precisely and there’s even a handy 60-minute timer to automatically switch the lamp off after one hour.

Pros:

• Only uses 15 watts LED, which is the equivalent of burning 100 watts of halogen.
• High Lumen Output with 1,000 lumens of light means it’s perfect for working in low light. The energy-saving light is designed to give you 50, 000+ hours of use, and save you up to 75% on your electricity bill -compared to the cost of using a standard light.
• Multiple Lighting Options

Cons:

• The lamp doesn’t have the lumen brightness that others have.

Diopter Magnification Converter

Diopter	Magnification
2	1.5X
3	1.5X
4	1.75X
5	2X
7	2.25X
8	2.75X
9	3.25X
20	6X

Other Ones We’ve Reviewed:

These are the products that didn’t quite make our top picks, but they’re still pretty good so you might like to take a look:

There have been several promising but so far, small scientific studies indicating the effectiveness of using lavender to alleviate anxiety and improve sleep quality.

Whether you find yourself wound up in a tight knot at 3 a.m. wondering if you will ever be able to fall asleep normally again or you would just like to relax, unwind and enjoy the wonderfully soothing benefits that pure essential lavender oil has to offer, this natural lavender massage oil recipe is perfect to help you relax and melt away the stresses of the day.

It’s quick and very easy to make and best of all, it’s 100% natural with no nasty chemicals added!

Lavender essential oil, as with all essential oils, should never be applied to the skin undiluted. This 1% dilation recipe will give you the wonderfully relaxing sweet aroma of lavender, without being too overpowering.

You Will Need:

6 Drops of Pure Lavender Essential Oil – Steam Distilled see below for a guide to choosing your essential oils

• 1oz/30ml of Organic Sweet Almond Oil or Organic Jojoba Oil 
• 1oz/30ml Aromatherapy Cobalt Blue Glass Bottle for storing your Natural Lavender Massage Oil

Method

Now with a steady hand, add 6 drops of pure lavender essential oil to your carrier oil – and that is it! You now have a wonderfully sweet lavender massage oil ready to use. Store your oil in a cool place away from direct sunlight, or better still, keep it in the refrigerator.

Carefully fill one cobalt blue glass bottle with the carrier oil of your choice. I recommend Jojoba or Sweet Almond oil but there are others that would work equally well.

Jojoba it lighter than Sweet Almond and is rich in Vitamin E. Sweet Almond which is my favorite doesn’t smell of almonds, in case you were wondering but it is rich and deeply nourishing.

Make sure you don’t overfill the bottle. The best way to do this is to hold the glass bottle up in good light, you should then be able to just see through it enough to avoid overfilling.

Please note: you should always store your carrier oil in the refrigerator.

How do you know this is a 1% dilution?

This is easy to calculate. It would take 600 drops of essential oil to fill a 1oz or 30ml bottle and 1% of 600 drops is 6. To make a 2% dilution, add a total of 12 drops of pure lavender essential oil to your carrier oil. This will give you a much stronger scent which is suitable for smaller areas, such as your feet or wrists. Personally, I find this dilution is a little too strong for me.

How to Choose Your Lavender Essential Oil

Be cautious when buying essential oils, there are a lot of fakes and/or questionable selling techniques out there! 

Be cautious when buying essential oils, there are a lot of fakes and/or questionable selling techniques out there! 

Tisserand is a well known and trusted company. Robert Tisserand is well known, author, international speaker, and consultant on aromatherapy. Tisserand has a website that has clear and transparent information about their products and all of their essential oils are 100% pure organic, wildcrafted or ethically harvested.

Tisserand is the brand I have used many times over the years and the one I am using at the moment.

Tisserand is available in the US here, or for the US organic version, click here.

And if you are in the UK, it’s available here.

Firstly, always read the label. Choose your essential oil by its botanical name.

Don’t buy anything that doesn’t say 100% pure essential oil on the label. There are many cheap synthetic copies out there that are made mostly from petrochemicals.

The companies that make these synthetic copies, artificially reproduce the smell of the oil. 

Obviously, you don’t want these chemicals on your skin and you don’t want to breathe them in either. 

But also make sure the label doesn’t say anything like “blend” as it will already have been diluted and mixed with something else. 

In the case of Lavender Essential Oil, look for “Steam Distilled.” If you were buying citrus essential oils you would look for “Cold Pressed.”

Therapeutic Grade: There is no regulation what-so-ever that decides what is therapeutic and what isn’t.

So basically the word is meaningless. To be magnanimous you could say that the company is trying to convey their product is produced in a way to preserve its therapeutic benefits, but the words mean nothing on their own.

USDA Certification: The USDA do not regulate essential oils, if they did, it would be for food standards and these essential oils are NOT to be taken internally.

USDA Certification can, however, be applied to the growing conditions of the plant or flowers used to make the essential oil.

It should be noted that harvesting that takes place in countries other than the US would be unlikely to be awarded USDA Certification regardless of whether they are organically and ethically produced or not.

And finally, you would think that as long as you can spot a synthetic oil, the world of essential oils would be fairly free of controversy, but you would be wrong.

I will just say that personally, I would never recommend buying any product from an essential oil company that uses Multi-level Marketing (MLM) techniques.

While I have no reason to think that there is anything wrong with the essential oils these companies produce, please do not ever allow yourself to be pressured into paying to become a distributor, unless you want to turn all your friends and family into prospective customers and then have to try to convince them to become distributors too.

If you are interested in learning more about aromatherapy, Susan Burgess has a great little ebook with some easy to follow recipes to get you started.

View here.